Traditionally, the border between the two countries high in the Alps is demarcated by the watershed, which marks the point at which meltwater flows toward one nation or the other. But rising temperatures caused by climate change are melting the Theodul glacier, causing the watershed to shift and push deeper into Italian territory. The shifting borders have thrown into question the status of the mountain refuge Rifugio Guide del Cervino, located at 3,480 meters or 11,417 feet. The visitor lodge, which was built by the Italians in 1984, now sits between two jurisdictions – the nearby Swiss ski resort of Zermatt and the Italian town of Valtournenche. Technically the resort is two-thirds on Swiss soil and one-third on Italian land. Hikers and skiers could enter through the front door, on Italian soil, but dine in a dining room and spend the night in dormitories in Switzerland.

“This place is Italian and always will be”

Negotiations between Rome and Bern over the border began in 2018 and an agreement was reached last November, but its details have not yet been made public. The deal will only be revealed when it is approved by the Swiss government next year. Lucio Trucco, director of the mountain refuge, told The Telegraph: “As far as I know, an agreement has been drawn up. It wouldn’t make sense to have part of the shelter in Switzerland and part of it in Italy, but it’s quite a complicated issue.” His biggest concern is the melting of the glacier. “It’s never been as hot as this year. It’s a huge concern.” A woman working at the shelter for the summer season added defiantly, “This place is Italian and always will be.”